What really helped me get better at sit starts was climbing on a moon board, and either finding boulders that have sit starts, or building new boulders with sit starts.
I was pretty bad at sit starts since they are very compressed for me, something I am fairly weak at. But after climbing for about a month almost only on the moon board, I really saw the improvement, and it was very noticeable.
I still work quite often on the moon board, and I can really see the difference from before and after. I try to do the most disgusting sit starts possible on the moon board, and I can do all of the sit starts on the regular route setting walls.
The moon board in my gym is a 30 degree angle I believe. If you don't have a moon board, I think you can probably do the same on any other system board.
There isnt a rule that says you need one, but, if you are going to use chalk then I would say yes, you do.
You could put your chalk in plastic containers like many new climbers do, but this is really not efficient, and its very easy for the chalk to spill and get knocked over.
I would say you should always try them on and see what works for you. The same principles apply to choosing neutral climbing shoes as they do to choosing aggressive climbing shoes - try them on and feel what feels best for you.
I would keep in mind the intended usage of the shoes though, since if you are getting neutral shoes, you may be climbing longer routes such as in sport and trad climbing, in which case, downsizing to something very tight may feel very painful and uncomfortable due to wearing the shoes for so long.
I don't have any lace climbing shoes, but so far I know quite a few people who have Velcro shoes that have torn and the Velcro strap is no longer attached. My shoes are actually very close to tearing it seems as well.
I have never seen anyone whose lace shoes have torn though, but I'm sure it happens, I just don't know at what rate compared to Velcro shoes.
There may be some brands that have similar sizing, most likely by chance, but overall brands can have very different sizing to their shoes. Even different shoes from the same brand tend to have different sizing.
I believe he said in one of his recent videos, or just in a video he was in, that he downsizes his shoes a few sizes less than he used to a few years ago. I can't remember the reason why he said he does it.
I kind of like the grading differences between climbing gyms. In some gyms a v4 could be as hard as a v6, and in some gyms a v8 can be as easy as a v6. It makes me sort of have to ignore the grades and just go for what ever route interests me and challenges me.
I understand the concept of soft grades, but, when it gets to the point where the grades are so soft that a v5 is actually a v3, shouldn't they just give it a v3-v4 grade instead of just calling it a soft v5?
All of the boulders in my gym are actually around 2 grades below their given grade, I don't understand why they give them the higher grades and not the actual lower grades. Is there a reason for it?
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